One of the highlights so far this summer was spending a couple of days in Epernay in Champagne. We stayed in a beautiful B&B just outside Cramant, a small village in the middle of The Côte des Blancs.
The house champagne was readily available in the fridge at €11/bottle. Excellent stuff (with no label). It turned out the landlord owned some plots of land on Côte des Blancs, and instead of simply just collecting cash in return for their grapes from the nearby Nicolas Feuillatte co-op, they were given this special blend which, as long as it was for private consumption in their home, could be offered unlabelled at this very decent price.
One of the great things about visiting wine regions is that you are able to really focus in on one area and expand your knowledge. Some key points that I thought were interesting included:
- The caves underlying Epernay and the Av. de Champagne are extremely long, sometimes several km long in one direction. These can be explored if you go to one of the nearby Champagne houses for a guided tour. We went to Mercier where they offered a very slick corporate presentation. You actually go on a driver less train in their caves, guided by a well dressed LVMH representative, followed by a tasting. Worth a visit.
- Contrary to popular belief there are actually a lot more than just three grape varieties that can be used for Champagne. The most common ones are of course Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier, however there are six other varieties that are allowed, although very seldom used: Pinot Blanc, Arbanne, Petit Meslier, Pinot gris (in Champagne named Fromenteau), Pinot de juillet and Pinot rosé. My favourite wine shop in London, The Sampler, has recently started selling a Champagne which includes several of these varieties, Laherte Les Clos from Laherte Freres, Chavot.
- Do you know how to visually distinguish the three main grape varieties before the grapes have developed their final size and colour and by simply looking at the leaves of the vine? I do. The top end of the Chardonnay leaf forms a ‘C’, the Pinot Meunier leaves have white tips (meunier means miller and the white tips look like dust from the white flour with some imagination). Pinot Noir is the one that doesn’t fit these criteria. This was pointed out to us by the wife of a wine grower who offers guided tours
- Insecticides are no longer used in Champagne, so alternative methods are used to protect the vines from threats such as diseases, larvae etc. One innovative solution were a small plastic containers attached to the vine which express the ‘scent’ of female larvae, resulting in that when the male larvae tries to find the female for mating they get very confused and end up not finding their way. I’ve added a picture below to demonstrate.
